Monday, June 16, 2014

Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk Watches

Girard Perregaux Chrono Hawk Watches Now With Steel Bracelet   watch releases
The sister collection of Sea Hawk dive watches that debuted at the same time were on rubber straps. While decent looking, http://www.chinwatch.co I personally always felt that this was a watch collection in need of a bracelet to really complete the theme - especially the Chrono Hawk. That time has finally come.
or early 2014, Girard-Perregaux finally debuts the Chrono Hawk in steel on a bracelet. The design strongly hearkens back to the Laureato collection of watches from Girard-Perregaux that helped inspired the Chrono and Sea Hawk timepieces. Though, these modern watches are much larger at 44mm wide with wide lugs. The Chrono Hawk, with its long lugs always "wore large" and Girard-Perregaux promised an upgrade to the strap to allow it to wrap around one's wrist more comfortably. It is entirely possible that this issue has been addressed in the bracelet here assuming there is enough movement in the first link connected to the lugs.

Right now Girard-Perregaux seems to only offer its new steel bracelet on the Chrono Hawk models. It is possible (likely) that it will also be available on the Sea Hawk models but that does not appear to have been confirmed yet. As of today, the Chrono Hawek ref. GP3300-0074 with a blue metallic dial and the ref.

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Corum Chronograph Tourbillon 47 Seafender

Corum Chronograph Tourbillon 47 Seafender: How The Admirals Cup Lost Its Rank   watch releases
My favorite family of watches in the current collection of Corum products is the Admirals' Cup. Based on a now defunct boat race, the original Admiral's Cup watch began in the 1980s and was the original yachting watch to wear on or off deck with your boating shoes and skipper cap. What has marked the Admiral's Cup collection for so long is the 12-sided case and the use of colorful boat pennant flags on the hour markers. The latter has been mostly depreciated as the colors no longer exist on most new Admiral's Cup watches. Many new Admiral's Cup watches are still rather cool. However, with watches like the Chronograph Tourbillon 47 Seafender (that in its own way is interesting) I feel like the original theme and personality of the Admiral's Cup collection has officially been thrown overboard.


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On paper, the Corum Admiral's Cup Chronograph Tourbillon 47 Seafender sounds like a worthy idea. It has a bunch of interesting features and slick materials such that the sum of its parts could actually be highly provocative. Rather, we have a watch built like a Cadillac that mated with an Abrams tanks. These worlds of aggressive luxury boating and high-end complications just don't meld together properly in my eyes.

Rather than mate a tourbillon with a GMT complication, this Seafender marries a tourbillon and a chronograph - again with a dial for the date. Powering the watch is the caliber CO 398 automatic that is pretty nice. if you recall what I said about the first Corum Seafender watch it was that the movement view looked better than the dial. The caliber CO 398 is rare, being an automatic for a tourbillon, and on top of that, it's a tourbillon that operates at 4 Hz. The 60 minute chronograph is column-wheel based, and the dial features a nice window for the tourbillon (with a Corum key logo on it). This dial is much more composed than the Seafender GMT, but that version with the small round-cut diamonds actually in the sub dials just doesn't do it for me.

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The Chronograph Tourbillon 47 Seafender is an Admiral's Cup in case alone. Nothing about the movement or presentation particularly feels like a logical extension of the Admiral's Cup DNA. Something like this would make much more sense being in a Romulus collection. It doesn't seem fair that the relative popularity of the Admiral's Cup line has made it the breeding ground for almost every new concept Corum wants to release. If they want to examine their own past, Corum will find that they are a brand of excellent design creativity and aesthetic ingenuity. I truly want them to return the Admiral's Cup to a place of some actual marine or yachting distinction and create new visual references for pieces it wants to include a tourbillon chronograph into.