Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Palmero Open Watch

I fell in love with this watch the second I put it on my wrist. Images formed in my head of how I could dash out with it undetected by Jaeger-LeCoultre's watchful eyes. It takes a really nice watch to conjure up images of grand larceny in your head. I let them keep the timepiece, but thoughts of it stayed in my mind. I really need to own one of these someday. Before you is the Palmero Open version of the Reverso Squadra watch. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Palmero Open Replica Watch There are other versions of the piece of course that aren't limited editions like this (gold is limited to 500 pieces, while the steel is not limited). Unlike some of the dual faced versions of the watches (where you flip around the face to display another face on the rear), this version style gives you a view of the movement through a sapphire caseback window.

There are enough differences between the Palmero Open (Palmero) to treat this as a different watch as opposed to just rebranded Reverso Squadra for some sporting event. What is the Palmero Open even? Tennis or golf something? I don't quite care, but the Palmero name sounds catchy. Oh wait, I just checked. Get this, the Palmero Open is some Argentinian Polo match - imagine that. Makes sense with a polo themed watch right? The case is a great size. The standard Reverso (even the larger version) is too small for me. The Squadra is still rectangular, but the dial is much more square. Size is 34.9mm wide by 50mm tall. Nice for this style of watch. You can see how good it looks on the wrist. The top and bottom of the case have angled in lugs for a clean look. The black parts of the case are coated with vulcanized rubber and there is exposed metal with horizontal line texturing on the top and bottom of the case as well as metal around the dial. I love the angular chronograph pusher and crown that go with the look. As I mentioned before, the watch comes in 18 pink gold as well as in steel. The gold version is limited to 500 pieces.

Jaeger's application of the rubber is really nicely done (and sporty!) It further protects the case a bit and has a soft feel to it.  I put an image of the standard  Reverso Squadra watch for you to compare the look. All the angularity of the look is carried over the case with the chronograph subdial and layout of the Arabic numeral hour markers. More horizontal line texturing in the middle of the dial work in tune with the top and bottom of the case front. The hands are probably what you would call baton hands, and look perfect with the look. All the dial really needs for super sportiness is luminant, which this style lacks, but makes up for in sexy looks.

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Inside the watch is Jaeger-LeCoultre in-house made Caliber 754 automatic movement. It has the time, big date (at 12 o'clock), second  timezone in GMT format (lower subdial) and a 12 hour chronograph. There are no seconds for the time. It further has a 65 hours of power reserve. You can see the movement when you "reseve" the case. Yea, it is still called "Reverso" for a reason. You never see images of how the case looks when it is opened or flipped around. So I made sure to take images of that for you. Bascially you just pull up on one side of the case, it snaps our being secured by two spring loaded ball bearings, then slide it over and turn it around and lock it back in. Pretty elegant and simple system. The case housing has some nice perlage polish on it (that looks so good in gold). Through the caseback sapphire window you can check out the movement. It has got some really nice decoration and finish. It reminds of me IWC, but then again IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre are sort of sister brands (both under Richemont), so that makes sense. They will get upset with me however if I don't mention that they are totally separate companies that do their "own thing."

Strap on the watch is a fabric style with a nice lining that matches the sport them of the timepiece. I like it better than the rubber of the standard Reverso Squadra. The Reverso Squadra Palmero is a real kick-ass timepiece with a solid movement, great looks, and a heritage that will keep people who know about watches envious. Top choice is in gold as it looks great with the black, but both are pieces worth lusting over and saving up for. Price is $10,950 in steel and $21,550 in rose gold.

Louis Chevrolet Driver 1911 Watch

This is one strange watch, and an ambitious feat. http://www.chinwatch.co It obviously is reminiscent of the other motoring styles watches that a leaning face that makes it easier to read why your hands are on a steering wheel.
The most distinguishing part of the design is the exposed engine pistons that move like a real engine's would. In a V8 layout of course. I will have to wait until 2011 to see how this actually works.

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Formex A780 Watches

The chronograph pushers (on that version) are meant to look like brake pedals - and the look is pulled off rather well. The final versions of the watches might look a bit different. For instance, the screws around the case on the PVD black cases might not be in black, but in polished steel. http:/http://www.chinwatch.co Attached to the cases will be port-holed leather straps with contrast stitching, and possibly available rubber straps.
Even with all that is going on with the case, it is still only about 13mm thick, and again, 45mm wide. In steel, it comes in PVD and polished steel. The hippest among us will go for the yellow and black dialed version. Hands remain visible and white. There are also a few other tones that play with black and silver tone with a red trim. The grated dial look interesting and industrial.

The chronograph version might end up being the best seller. It has a Swiss ETA 215.211 quartz chronograph movement. I hear there may be another version of the A780 on the way with a Ronda quartz alarm movement that also has a big date. With its cool round-square case and 3D dial.

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Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Watch

In platinum, the watch case and dial of this Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes (yes, spelled like that) watch feel as though they were milled from a solid piece of the precious metal.There is so much platinum in this watch - it boggles the mind. Actually, the the dial, markers, and hands are in gold - but they are toned to look like platinum.

In that video you can see exactly how this movement operates. The tourbillon is oriented at an incline, and moves around its axis once each 24 seconds. http://www.kaufeluxusuhren.com/ For that reason there is a subsidiary 60 seconds dial that is placed right next to it.

There is actually gold in the movement as well, and on various other parts of the watch (such as for the chatons, some bridges, Greubel Forsey logo, etc... If you look carefully, you'll also notice titanium parts of the movement as well. The movement has 72 hours of power reserve, and in addition to the time and tourbillon, has a power reserve indicator on the dial. Realize that the movement is all hand decorated and finished.

In addition to the sapphire crystal on the dial and caseback, there is a curved crystal on the side of the case with a nice view into the happenings of the tourbillon. Everything about the watch aside from looking at it head on involves the movement and its beauty.

Tag Heuer Monaco Watch

A few months ago began an interesting project with the Parsons New School For Design (worked with the New York City campus). http://www.chinwatch.coThe project was called "The Art of Watchmaking." Silly, because the idea was to design watches, not really make movements. Anyhow. The plan was to have design students re-imagine the iconic Tag heuer Monaco.
Student groups were to compete against one another, with each group's result being a few designs. Tag Heuer would reserve the right to actually produce the watches. Produce them if they liked the watches of course. The pictured three watches were the winning models.

Probably not in my opinion. While interesting, I think there is an important lesson to be learned here. Among those lessons is that these student seem to not really have a grasp of good watch design - and why would they? They never learned. Forget the fact that aside from the case, these timepieces don't really have any manner of Tag Heuer design DNA.

The watch dials that the students created are interesting, but don't really do it for me. They really seem a lot more like design concept than something a watch maker would be serious about. The black sliding shield over the top watch makes no sense to me. Looks like when closed it just offers a view of one of the subdials. From a design perspective that might be cool - but it offers nothing of practical interest.

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Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra Thin Watch

Piaget new little flagship watch isn't so little, but it is skinny. This is the thinnest automatic tourbillon watch on the planet - and it really is nice to look at. Comes complete with a front mounted solid gold automatic micro-rotor, and rear-mounted power reserve indicator. http://www.chinwatch.co Sure you can even tell the time as well - but that isn't as easy as seeing the other stuff. Really a gorgeous watch and certainly tasteful enough for most any person to appreciate.
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MB&F HM4 Piece Unique

Just as they did in 2009, MB&F will participate in the 2011 Only Watch charity auction to be held in Monaco this September. http://www.chinwatch.co The event is an auction for unique watches only, with proceedings going to help fund research for a particularly nasty type of disease that affects children. Instead of just changing a color or small style element, MB&F prefers to donate a true piece of art.

For the 2009 Only Watch event MB&F worked with artist Sage Vaughn on a piece unique based on the HM2. This latter piece focused on the crippling nature of the disease and was a beautiful, but dark piece that had barbed wire entangling the movement. For 2011 Max Busser of MB&F wanted a more uplifting message. As the type of muscular dystrophy the charity seeks to combat is incurable, the idea is that the children can only escape in their dreams. Thus, the 2011 MB&F piece Only Watch is a celebration of what boy's dream about. For Max Busser it was frequently flying - and perhaps it was for you as well.

MB&F worked with well-known Chinese artist Huang Hankang on the piece and based it on the HM4 Thunderbolt watch. He discovered Huang Hankang via a painting of his depicting a Panda flying a rocket ship. He contact Mr. Hankang who then came up with the idea of a Panda literally riding the HM4 (that is already meant to look like a flying machine). The Panda represents youth and things we like as children. The little guy is holding reins and literally riding the HM4 like it was a dragon (or a rocket powered ship).

Of course for me, the immediate image is that of the podracers in Star Wars Episode One. The two "pods" that make up much HM4 look like podracer engines, and the reins are similar to those from the scene in the movie. So allow me to nickname this watch the "Panda Bear Rider." The Panda and concept was designed by the artist, and a jeweler in Switzerland crafted the bear and reins out of solid 18k white gold. According to MB&F it took many hours just to hand engrave the Panda and accompanying parts.

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In addition to the figurine, the HM4 watch itself needed to be modified. This is not only for the inclusion of the figurine, but because it is also detachable. Wearing it with the panda bear rider can make the HM4 much more delicate . So you can slide off the panda and reins. This required modifying a few parts on this particular one-of-a-kind creation. Another unique element is the addition of artist Huang Hankang's signature in Chinese placed on one of the bottom mounted sapphire crystals.

Tag Heuer Link Watch

Among Tag Heuer's mainstay watch collections is the Link. I believe it was originally introduced in the late 1980s, http://www.chinwatch.co and has been a major part of the brand's image since then.

Going first to the bracelet, Tag Heuer streamlined the iconic look a lot. Making the links a bit more flush and less rounded. The distance between the parts is much less. I recall with previous bracelet, sizing it was a pain. I did manage to size it myself, but it was a very involved process.

As the core case and bracelet of the watch are softer looking and brushed, Tag Heuer wanted to create a contrast when it came to the dial and bezel. Here you see much of the design of the new Link. For now, gone is the rotating bezel replaced with a fixed polished bezel that hints to the piece's dressy soul.

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