Wednesday, January 28, 2015

The Breitling Superocean Chronograph



Polished accents on the edge of the bezel, the pushers, the crown and bracelet links, contrast nicely with the satin finished dive bezel. http://www.chinwatch.co The bezel has a black rubber inlaid 60-minute scale with a triangle and luminous filled dot at 60.
The dial is easy to read with large Arabic numerals and green luminous paint, and indexes for 2, 3, 6, 9 — with 12 o’clock marked by a triangle. The large hour and minute hands have a green luminous material, for improved nighttime visibility. The red tipped second hand has luminous material in the tip as well.

The Superocean Chronograph Steelfish is powered by a caliber 13, which is a COSC certified Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement. It is available with a steel bracelet or rubber strap.

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The new Lange 1



Since its original debut in 1994, the Lange 1 has been the most iconic watch from German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne. Fast forward to 2015, and the line now consists of 15 models, with complications ranging from moon phase indication to world time zone to tourbillon.

The biggest changes happened to the movement, in fact, http://www.kaufeluxusuhren.com the only visible modification apart from the new caliber, is a slight narrowed bezel. The signature asymmetrical dial is now a little more open.

The Lange 1 comes in the same 38.5 mm by 9.8 mm case and is available in the same case/dial combinations: (Ref. 191.021) yellow gold/champagne, (Ref. 191.032) pink gold/argenté and (Ref. 191.025) platinum/rhodié.

The new caliber L121.1 now has a jumping outsize date display which switches at midnight. “The force needed for this action is slowly built up during a period of several hours,” according to Lange. The escapement now has poising weights and is free-sprung. The hairspring has been upgraded from a Nivarox to an in-house spring.

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

The Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare

PAM00587_DETT8_740247.jpg

Panerai introduced the military-inspired Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare at the Watches & Wonders show in Hong Kong last week. http://www.chinwatch.co The hand-wound (ref. PAM00587) is powered by in-house caliber P.3000 which runs at 3Hz, has 160 components (21 jewels) and a 3-day power reserve, thanks to two-barrels.

Functions are hours and minutes. The dial has sandwich construction and has a vintage colored lume, hands and markings.

The stainless steel case measures 47 mm in diameter, and while the back has a see-through sapphire crystal, a 3 mm thick plexiglass crystal protects the front. The steel crown is screw-down and is emblazoned with “OP.”

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The Breitling Chronomat 44 Raven



The Chronomat 44 Raven in black steel is the newest addition to the Breitling Chronomat collection. http://www.chinwatch.co The watch is presented in a 44 mm diameter black steel case, with range accents on the bezel, tachymeter ring, subsidiary display hands and the chronograph central seconds hand. The orange accents clearly standout against the matt black dial, indexes, hands, bezel and case.

The hours are marked by large, matt black applied indexes with cream colored lume. The hour and minute hands are also matt black, with cream colored luminous material. The crown and pushers are in black steel, and have a polished finish that contrasts with the matt surfaces seen on the rest of the watch.

On the back is a sapphire crystal that shows off the Breitling caliber B01 in-house chronograph movement. Notably, the oscillating weight has been blackened and features orange text to match the color scheme of the watch.

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Sunday, January 11, 2015

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin Tribute to 1931

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin Tribute to 1931

In my modest collection of watches, there is not a single one with a rectangular case; the only non-round one is the octagonal Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin. Nevertheless, http://www.chinwatch.co since rectangular-case watches do have their fans.My issue with rectangular watches is that I find them just a bit too “classical” for my taste.

This is actually a watch that I tried & tested for a week (you can read the full story here). I had been looking forward to “test-driving” this Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin since it was introduced during the 2011 SIHH in Geneva. The Reverso seems to have the perfect dimensions and comes with a proud heritage. In short, I loved this watch but I would need more time with it to find out if I could wear it long-term.

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Saturday, January 3, 2015

Montblanc Meisterstuck Heritage Moonphase

Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Moonphase

Last but by no means least in the 2014 Montblanc collection is the Meisterstück Heritage Moonphase. http://www.chinwatch.co Offered in 39mm rose gold or steel case, it shares the aesthetic codes of the Meisterstück Heritage collection:  the narrow bezel (rounded and polished), the caseband with a soft horizontal satin finish to it, the slightly cambered dial with a sunburst pattern, and the faceted, applied indices and an applied Roman numeral XII.

Marking this piece’s unique flavor is its moonphase aperture combined with a date indicator, located at 6 o’clock.  Automatic mechanical caliber, visible through a sapphire display back.

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Baume & Mercier Clifton Retrograde Date

Baume et Mercier Clifton Retrograde Date beauty shot

Here we have the Baume & Mercier Clifton Retrograde Date, new for 2014.  The watch shares the characteristic elegance of the Clifton collection, including its well proportioned dial and graceful case lines.This watch is distinguished by its retrograde date function, as well as a day of week subdial and power reserve.  I think one of these indicators, however, is wholly unnecessary.  Read on below for more analysis.

Those of you unfamiliar with the term “retrograde” should not be intimidated — it simply refers to any function that instantly jumps back to its starting position once it runs its course (rather than running 360° continuously).  http://www.kaufeluxusuhren.comIn this case you can see the arcing date scale on the right side of the dial — the blue hand will advance one day at a time until it reaches the end of the month, advancing almost 180° whereupon it will quickly snap back to the beginning so as to start the new month.

Now, I would be remiss in not pointing out up front that his watch has already been done before by Baume & Mercier, several years ago, it was called the Classima Executive.  In fact it has been by many other brand as well (Cimier, Louis Erard, Ebel) — this is merely a function of caliber choice, the Soprod 9094.  Certainly this design looks as good as ever as a “Clifton”, though all of these automatic watches have one feature which I disapprove of: a a power reserve indicator.