Thursday, December 15, 2016

Parmigiani Tonda Métrographe Watch, Cool Black With A Little Orange Decorated

Parmigiani Fleurier released the Tonda Metro collection, which was designed to appeal to a younger audience and also be more accessible at the same time. The Metro collection includes the Tonda Métrographe watch (hands-on here), and they are now updating it with a fresh and more modern design. For the new Tonda Métrographe, Parmigiani has made minor revisions to the case and reworked the entire dial. Let us walk you through the changes here. The name Parmigiani Fleurier should be familiar to most serious watch collectors and lovers.


The Parmigiani Tonda Métrographe watch still comes with a 40mm stainless steel case, but thickness has been reduced slightly from 12.2mm to 11.7mm. Water resistance remains the same at 30m, so a couple of splashes won’t harm it. The case retains the same design cues as its predecessors, the most notable being the powerful-looking lugs, which give it an air of strength and modernity. The dial, however, has been completely changed. The new Parmigiani Tonda Métrographe watch will come with black and white dial versions. The two variants have similar design flourishes, but some color differences. For example, while the black dial version will feature rose gold chronograph hands, the white dial version will have blued steel chronograph hands.

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Magrette Moana Pacific Waterman Watch In Cool Black

 Most Magrette watches I've seen are 44mm wide, while the Magrette Moana Pacific Waterman is 42mm wide but continues use of the Panerai-inspired thick cushion case. The 42mm-wide size opens up the design to a lot of people who feel that a 44mm-wide watch is just too large for their wrists. For those who feel that 44mm wide just isn't sensible enough for daily wear, I think that they will really like the size of the Magrette Moana Pacific Waterman.

The steel case is water resistant to 200 meters and topped with a sapphire crystal that is domed in a sort of vintage style to look like old acrylic crystals. It does have some glare, but is AR-coated and overall offers a nice mixture of style and legibility. For me, this matte PVD-coated black version of the Magrette Moana Pacific Waterman is the best-looking of the bunch, especially in how the case and aluminum black bezel insert go together. Unlike most diving watches with rotating 60-minute timing bezels, the Magrette Moana Pacific Waterman has a 12-hour scale on the bezel that can be used for a 12-hour counter or as a second time zone. The "12 o'clock" point on the uni-directional rotating bezel is set with a lume pip. Most people will consider the Magrette Moana Pacific Waterman's dial design to be its most distinctive feature. It sure is handsome, and looks better in person than the mock-up drawings I first saw on Magrette's website.

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Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Bulgari Diagono Magnesium Concept Watch With A Special Color Dial

In 2016, the release of the Bulgari Diagono Magnesium Concept watch could put the watchmaking industry on a new path. We're in an era of change. Advancements in wearable technology are coming thick and fast. This is in stark contrast to the often glacial progress of horology en masse. For most of the 20th century, game-changing inventions were massive and infrequent. Nowadays, infinitesimal improvements seem to be happening all the time.


The Bulgari Diagono Magnesium Concept forces us to ask questions about the future of haute horlogerie. The integration of new, non-mechanical technologies into luxury watches moves the goalposts somewhat. Coinciding with the dawn of the smart watch age are hybrid luxury watches such as the Bulgari Diagono Magnesium Concept and the Breitling B55 Connected, a compromise that might perpetuate high-end horology's relevance in an increasingly interactive world, or are they a desperate prelude to an approaching death knell? Wearing the watch on the wrist, one might argue. Breitling B55 Connected is a luxury quartz watch that connects to your smart phone using similar, if not identical technology to the Bulgari Diagono Magnesium Concept. There are plenty of purists who dismiss quartz as it is. I've never been that strict on the matter, because I tend to care more about what the watch stands for. That said, there comes a point when even I believe a line should be drawn.

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Alpina Alpiner 4 Flyback Chronograph With New AL-760 In-House Movement, Great Creation In 2016

The most classic design of Alpina Alpiner in 2016 must be the Alpina Alpiner 4 Flyback Chronograph With New AL-760 In-House Movement, this AL-760 is a modular chronograph, wherein Alpina has designed a module that is added to one of their existing in-house movements (an AL-710) to form the final calibre. With a maximum measure of 30 minutes and a pointer-date sub dial at six, the AL-760 is an impressive feat of design and manufacturing for a small but fiercely competitive brand like Alpina. You can even notice that the crown and pushers form a vertical line on the case side, a rare feat for a modular chronograph.  


Alpina launched the Alpiner 4 GMT, which uses a Sellita SW200 movement with a custom Alpina module to offer proper jumping local hour hand GMT functionality. This year, they've continued their growth of the Alpiner 4 line with the Alpina Alpiner 4 Flyback Chronograph. For those of you new to the Alpiner 4 concept, it is a sort of relaunch of a series of priorities first exemplified by Alpina in the late 30's. The four pillars of the Alpiner 4 models are 1) anti-magnetism, 2) water resistance, 3) shock resistance, and 4) the use of non-rusting steel for the case - all great areas on which to focus when designing a sport watch. The new Alpina Alpiner 4 Flyback Chronograph is 44mm wide in stainless steel with with a sapphire crystal and a screw down crown.

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Monday, November 28, 2016

Piaget Altiplano Chronograph Watch, A Simple But Classic Design

In the case of the Piaget Altiplano Chronograph, less is certainly more. The aesthetic is clean and direct. Single black lines to mark the hours and minutes, while parallel lines mark the even hours. The three sub-dials are decorated with tall, slim Arabic numerals and are located towards the centre of the dial at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Unusually, the 9 o'clock sub-dial is actually a GMT dial, not an hour counter as one might expect.

The 41mm rose gold case is noticeably sharp. Its plain, straight sides, and angular bezel give the whole watch the appearance of size, despite remaining comfortable to wear – the case comes in at a remarkable 8.24mm tall. Due to the starkness of the flanks, the watch is able to satisfy the modern requirement for presence, while remaining slight enough to fit comfortably under a cuff. The Piaget Altiplano Chronograph retains a consistent identity through the use of stout, polished pushers that blend in with the otherwise uncluttered silhouette. The pushers need to be there because it's a chronograph, but their presence is muted and all the better for it.

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Konstantin Chaykin Carpe Diem Hour Glass Watch With Human Image On the Dial

As far as mechanical complexity is concerned, the big deal with the Konstantin Chaykin Carpe Diem is the hourglass complication that dominates the left side of the dial. Although no actual sand is used in the movement – for obvious reasons – the impression of an hourglass slowly filling as the minutes pass is achieved by an ingenious shutter system. This is a cute and undeniably well-executed notion, and a novel way to record time on the wrist. The downside is that it's very difficult to read the time to the minute.   

There is a skull nestled amidst some fine gold engraving at seven thirty, and another at nine o'clock on the side of the case. Beyond the – very trendy – skull theme, there actually is some very intriguing, and arguably more refined mythology on display. Dominating the dial and the overall appearance of the timepiece, a re-imagining of Cronos, the God of time, sits dejected atop the hour dial. One hand grasps the scythe that will cut you down when the hourglass, on which his other hand rests, finally runs out; and behind this morbid scene, we can see that the end has come for daylight too.

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Sunday, November 20, 2016

Longines Pulsometer Chronograph Watch With Full Numbers On The Dial

This watch stands out immediately for its retro-styling and eye-catching dial that features an unusual chronograph scale. A tachymeter, used for measuring speed over a known distance, is a common chronograph scale seen on sports watches. There are, however, other types of scales that look more at home on the face of a dress watch.

It is smart and simple, made of stainless steel, is water resistant to 30 meters (which is enough for a medical professional, who is unlikely to be going any deeper than the sink), and is on the svelte side for a chronograph with this movement. Measuring 40mm across, not including the larger crown/pusher at 3 o'clock, this watch is designed to fit under a shirt sleeve and not to grab your attention. Its beauty comes from its quiet confidence in a brilliant marriage of form and function. From a classical perspective, it would have been nice to see the dial enamelled, but it is true that would have imposed a higher price tag.

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