Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic 1958

The Geophysic 1958 will be offered in steel (limited 800 pieces – $9,800) and pink gold (limited 300 pieces – $20,800).  http://www.chinwatch.co As shown above, a (slightly different dialed) platinum model, limited 58 pieces, will also be offered exclusively in JLC boutiques at price tag of $32,000 on blue alligator strap.  There’s a lot to like here and I’ll break it all down below.
The 38.5mm case size is small by today’s standards but a bit larger than the original which was 35mm. It has a brushed bezel and lug surfaces with brushed caseband.The automatic mechanical JLC Cal 898/1 is also an upgrade vs. the original caliber 478BWSbr, though the 478BWSbr did incorporate the best of watchmaking technology of its age (more on this below).

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Harry Winston Project Z8 Watch

Project Z8 is fitted on a black rubber strap bearing a Clou de Paris hobnail motif, and secured by a Zalium ardillon buckle.A couple other subtle details I will point out to you. http://www.chinwatch.co  First, in a departure from past tradition, the movement is supplied by Blancpain (like Zalium, it is exclusive to Harry Winston). 
You do recall that The Swatch Group Acquired Harry Winston for $1 billion, right?  And thus it makes perfect sense that an esteemed manufacture and brand such as Blancpain would now be their movement supplier.  And second, the Zalium case measures 44mm.

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Longines Heritage 1935 Watch

New for 2014, the Longines Heritage 1935 is a reissue of a watch Longines originally made for the Czech Air Force in the 1930’s; the Heritage 1935 retains all the original’s signature elements including the distinctive cushion case with fluted bezel, and cathedral hands. 

The case has been upsized to 42mm, +1mm from the origina (at 41mm in the 1930’s, clearly an aviator’s watch!).   http://www.chinwatch.co Also typical of an aviator’s watch, the Heritage 1935 has a matte black dial with large and luminous white Arabic numerals.

A couple differences vs. the reissue are that the original had a rotating, fluted bezel with a triangular marker; the remake has a fixed, fluted bezel, and in a departure from the original, a date window has been added.  The overall aesthetic is nonetheless retained.

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Grieb & Benzinger Centurion Black Platinum Watch

Grieb & Benzinger presents two new bespoke platinum timepieces based on the inspiration from “an ambitious watch connoisseur looking for incredible, understated skeleton watches that nonetheless proffer value and handcrafts, http://www.kaufeluxusuhren.com but in an “invisible” way.”  

The interesting collector request inspired Grieb & Benzinger’s CEO and Georg Bartkowiak to transfer the brand’s bestseller ― the Black Tulip ― into a never-seen-before platinum execution.  The classic Black Tulip has beentransformed into a glamorous, yet simultaneously understated, high-end timepiece boasting an all-black appearance.

The idea of the totally understated value of solid Platinum (PT950) beneath a blackened surface in combination with pure hand-skeletonization appealed to this client’s ideal of discreet taste.

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Oris Big Crown Propilot Altimeter

For 2014, Oris continues to innovate with the introduction of the Big Crown Propilot Altimeter, the first automatic watch with an altimeter. http://www.chinwatch.co What makes the watch interesting is not only the first it presents,but how well it fits within Oris’ existing model lineup.

Available in three different flavors—bracelet, black strap, and green strap—the watch is bold and sporty, like much of the existing Oris range. The barometer and altimeter pop from the dial thanks to bright coloring, but interestingly enough, the Propilot Altimeter never feels too over the top. For a watch of the first of its kind, the dial is remarkably simplistic, clear, and displays only what’s required.

The altimeter itself is another story, however. For the complication to work, the crown at 4 o’clock must be unscrewed in order to let air into the 47mm case, which enables an internal aneroid capsule to expand and contract, moving the altimeter hands.

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RJ-Romain Jerome Batman DNA Watch

J-Romain Jerome, in a deal with DC Comics, pays tribute to Gotham City’s Super Hero with a timepiece inspired by the Dark Knight: the Batman-DNA. http://www.chinwatch.co This is part of Romain Jerome’s “Collaborations” collection which includes other partnership/license deals such as Space Invaders, Pac-Man and Delorean. 

The watch reflects Batman’s heroic personality, with a 46 mm black PVD-coated steel case, an angular black bezel recalling the contours of the “Batmobile”, and a black-lacquered Batman emblem applique placed at the center of the dial.  The rest of the dial has undergone RJ-Romain Jerome’s special “rough” finish, giving the watch a dark and edgy look.   The legendary “Bat-Signal”, shines at night thanks to an engraving, filled with black Superluminova, which outlines the hero’s famous symbol.

First appearing in the comic book Detective Comics #27 featuring artwork by artist Bob Kane and a script by Bill Finger, Batman has evolved throughout the years, forging his double identity along the way.  Manuel Emch, CEO of RJ Watches comments: “I have always been a fan of Batman, his mysterious character and double identity is an exhaustible source of inspiration. He represents a duality between good and evil in a contemporary world.”

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New Design for A. Lange Saxonia Models In 2015

At SIHH in January 2015, A. Lange & Söhne will present three Saxonia models with new design features intended to further enhance their intrinsic gracefulness.  Most intriguing to me is the size change on the base Saxonia — what do you think of a 35mm case size?  Yup, that’s where the new base Saxonia is measuring in at.  We’ll get into that in a moment.  But for now suffice it to say that Lange’s the base Saxonia, Saxonia Automatic, and Saxonia Dual Time are all receiving changes, which I will break down below.

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All three models have new dial designs, however, I would characterize the revisions as fairly minorMore interesting to me are the case size changes for two of the models.

Never one to get caught up in the “big watch” craze, Lange is known for its modest case sizes.  In fact its iconic Lange 1 has been a 38.5mm watch since it was introduced 20 years ago!  The base Saxonia (with manual wind caliber) now has a 35mm case, a decrease of 2mm vs. prior.  In the last 5 or so years, this is basically an unheard of size in terms of smallness.  Though it does reflect a trend towards smaller diameter case size which started a couple years ago, 35mm is quite small compared to most of today’s watches which trend more toward 39mm-40mm, plus or minus a couple mm.  Correspondingly, the L941.1 manufacture calibre has been reduced a couple mm as well.

Richard Mille RM011 Yellow Storm

The RM011 Yellow Storm is 50-piece limited edition offered exclusively through Richard Mille boutiques in the Americas,starting with the Beverly Hills and Las Vegas locations. http://www.chinwatch.co Though keepin with the general traits of Richard Mille’s RM011 series (an automatic flyback chronograph watch), this particular RM011 is cased in Mille’s super-cool NTPT carbon case.

Some of the RM 011’s main features, which include major technical innovations, are its skeletonized automatic winding movement with adjustable rotor geometry (as I explain here); 60-minute countdown timer; 12-hour totalizer; annual calendar; and oversize date and month.

Already used in the fields of aerospace technology, the manufacture of racing sales, and Formula 1 racecar design, NTPT® (North Thin Ply Technology) carbon is incredibly strong and light, and composed of more than 600 layers of parallel filaments obtained by dividing carbon fibers.

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Pinion Axis Bronze

For me this is the first ever time I actually get to wear a bronze watch. And from the looks of it I think it will be a nice experience. http://www.chinwatch.co Where we try to write an article as objective as possible, personal views are always depicted no matter what.

Machined from a single block of marine grade bronze the case is nice and shiny upon arrival, slowly changing colour and ageing over time, giving it that special look and feel. The case measures 42 mm without, and 45.5 mm including the steel crown and is 13.2 mm thick. Not the smallest watch on the block, yet it wears very comfortable and doesn’t look too big om my wrist.

With the lugs slightly pointing down, the Pinion Axis Bronze wears very comfortable as the strap attaches at the same level as the steel case back. There we find the engraved Pinion logo along with other markings.

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Longines HydroConquest

A lot of watch enthusiasts love to muse about the good old days when tool watches were still tool watches and had a price tag that was relatively high, but still affordable. A lot of those watches are still on the market, but now marketed as a luxury watch with a price tag that will cost you an arm and a leg.

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But have no fear, as there are still brands out there who deliver – or try to deliver – tool watches that are also up to the task and have a very friendly price tag.However, the challenge for watch enthusiasts is to find such a good mechanical watch with an attractive price tag and still be impressed with all of its characteristics.

Five Picks From Christie's Hong Kong Sale

This is an absolutely killer Killy (named after the famous French gold medalist skier Jean-Claude Killy, http://www.chinwatch.co who is said to have worn one and who has been on the Rolex board of directors for over 40 years) and I also expect it to kill at the auction – it is the nicest reference 6036 seen at auction in some time.

No doubt the vintage Patek that gets most people’s hearts pumping in the sale is a reference 1579 chronograph in steel. These are rare – this is only the ninth steel example to have appeared in public to date according to research by Christie’s. In addition, the present watch comes from the descendant of the original owner.

The slightly unusual thing about it, and something that would generally kill the value of other vintage watches, is that the case was replaced in 1967, 20 years after the watch was first made. With Patek watches, the re-casing does indeed affect the value, but we are still talking about a watch that is expected to perform very well.

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Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Large Date

The Girard-Perregaux ’Vintage 1945 Large Date, Moon-Phases watch’, to give it its full title, shows off its gears, display disks, screws, levers and wheels for the first time. http://www.chinwatch.co Available in a choice of stainless steel or pink gold versions (both with alligator straps), the watch features a smoked glass effect on the sapphire dial obtained by surface metallization.

The watch also includes a jumping date change and moon phase function (located at 6 o’clock and operating on the same axis as the small seconds hand), along with hour, minute and small second indications.There’s a 46-hour power reserve, and it’s all packed into the rectangular 1945 (the original was designed that year) Art Deco-style case.

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Emmanuel Bouchet Complication One launched

Besides the launch of new watch models, no less than four new watch brand launches could be found at this years SalonQP in London. http://www.chinwatch.co For Fratellowatches Emmanuel Bouchet was the most intriguing with the official launch of the brand and their first watch, the Emmanuel Bouchet Complication One.

renchman Emmanuel Bouchet, who held various positions at the most prestigious watch manufactures and who is well known for creating Harry Winston’s Opus 12, chose SalonQP to officially launch his own brand and first watch model, the Emmanuel Bouchet Complication One.

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Omega Geneve – A Rare Chronometer

When watch lovers look at the most of them think about the lower valued so called entry-level vintage Omegas. http://www.chinwatch.co It is wide known among Omega collectors that back in the day when Omega introduced the Geneve collection it was meant to be one of the flagship lines of the brand though. By the mid- to late 1960s Omega shifted their attention.

The Speedmaster collection was very successful (and we all know why). The Seamaster collection with its diver watches was also doing great and with the introduction of a few new Seamaster chronographs the brand was getting to a wider audience than ever before.

The designs of the 1970s Omega Geneve watches were outstanding nonetheless. So many different shapes and colors hardly any other Omega collection could compete with that. The watch we are about to explore is a bit different in a way that at first look it’s just another “regular” Omega Geneve.

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Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Squelette Watch

At 39mm wide, the Tonda 1950 is, and was always, considered a unisex watch. Parmigiani was never shy about offering it as a women's piece, when dressed up with a mother-of-pearl dial and diamonds decorating the bezel. 39mm wide is a good size for formal attire such as a tuxedo, http://www.kaufeluxusuhren.com but we have always felt that Parmigiani would be wise to release a larger sized Tonda 1950 in something like a 42mm wide case for men who prefer slightly larger watches.
With the openness of a skeletonized dial, the Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Squelette may very well feel a bit larger. Parmigiani has dutifully skeletonized the in-house made caliber PF705 in a modern and attractive manner, and the Parmigiani Tonda 1950 is now a competitor to many versions of the Piaget Altiplano that have skeletonized movements and dials, as well as certain Cartier models.

Hublot King Power Los Angeles Lakers Watch

Hublot announced a new partnership with the Los Angeles Lakers basketball team as their official timekeeper and presumably watchmaking partner. http://www.chinwatch.co For 2014, Hublot now releases a watch exclusively for the team with the Hublot King Power Los Angeles Lakers timepiece.

Swiss watch brands Hublot and Audemars Piguet have for a while been competing over visibility when it comes to attracting American basketball fans with the resources to purchase high-end luxury watches. Back in 2011, I discussed the beginning of what was a turf war for the best basketball teams and personalities between Hublot and Audemars Piguet.

At 48mm wide in a black ceramic, titanium, and carbon fiber case, the Hublot King Power Los Angeles Lakers is very much a standard King Power chronograph with some decorative enhancements to fit the Lakers theme. Perhaps the most interesting detail is that one of the two straps supplied with the watch is produced from an authentic Lakers jersey stitched to a rubber backing.

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Blancpain Villeret Collection

 

The Blancpain Villeret collection welcomes its first model featuring a beautiful flinqué lacquered dial.http://www.chinwatch.co Several layers of translucent blue lacquer applied to the dial create a rich depth effect, while preserving the pure lines of its most classic collection.

The watch is housed in a 40mm white gold case, powered by the ultra-slim Blancpain Calibre 7663Q, a new self-winding movement.In addition to the hour, minute and “serpentine” styled date pointer, there is also a retrograde seconds function at 6 o’clock.
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Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Watch

Zenith will broaden its popular El Primero Chronomaster line of models with 2 new models, the El Primero Chronomaster 1969 and the El Primero Chronomaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase.First let’s take a closer look at the Chronomaster 1969, a watch that reflects both Zenith’s rich heritage and its return to respectable watchmaking in recent years.

As with the original 1969 El Primero model, the 30-minute and 12-hour counters feature the same colours as the original 1969 El Primero model.http://www.kaufeluxusuhren.com This watch has a new El Primero movement in the form the Calibre 4061, beating at 36,000vph (higher frequency movement than many).

You can also see — and this is a Zenith “first” — a partially cut-away of the dial through the beating heart of the movement can be seen.This open-heart construction reveals the work of Zenith movement design engineers and watchmakers who redesigned the movement’s escapement to sit at 10 o’clock.

Romain Jerome DeLorean DNA watch

Swiss luxury watchmakers RJ-Romain Jerome have released a new timepiece in tribute to an iconic Eighties legend – the DeLorean automobile.

The case is made of brushed stainless steel measuring 46mm wide, http://www.chinwatch.co using metal from an original DeLorean DMC-12 in the bezel of the watch.

The timepiece is driven by Romain Jerome’s in-house RJ-001CH 23-jewel automatic mechanical movement with 42-hour power reserve and chronograph function.On the rear of the watch is a caseback plate that features an engraving of the DeLorean DMC-12 car with the gull wing doors open.

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Burberry launches ‘The Britain’ watch

Burberry‘s The Britain celebrates 158 years of the London-based brand, and marks the company’s first venture into the luxury watch market.http://www.chinwatch.co The watches are inspired by the classic Burberry trench, with the rounded octagonal shape of the face taken from the D-ring closure on the famous coats. The color palette also follows the brand’s classic design-scheme.

“The Britain is the embodiment of our rich, British heritage,” said the brand’s creative director Christopher Bailey, who revealed the label’s Spring-Summer 2013 pret-à-porter collection last month in London.

The advertising campaign for the watch, a series of black-and-white portraits, was shot by Mario Testino in London and features young actress Gabriella Wilde.Starring alongside her are Rob Pryor, previously a member of rock band Outcry Collective, who co-wrote the music accompanying the campaign images, and art dealer Harry Scrymgeour.

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Louis Vuitton for Only Watch

Participating for the fourth time, Louis Vuitton has produced a superb piece unique for the upcoming Only Watch charity auction. As in prior years, Louis Vuitton’s piece for Only Watch 2013 is extra special because it was designed in collaboration with young Paul Pettavino.

Paul has Duchenne muscular dystrophy, and it is research towards a cure for this disease which proceeds of the event go to support. Paul’s father LUC is president of the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophies and a figurehead in the Only Watch event.

This year, Paul designed the enamel and gold sailboat or painted on the dial and the painted Louis Vuitton Damier canvas trunk. A message signed by the young boy is also stuffed inside.

This Tambour Regatta Spin Time has a 45.5mm x 16mm rose gold case, and the regatta timing function uses LV’s novel “spin time” mechanics (the red squares are actually rotating cubes).

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Parmigiani Fleurier honors Brazil with a new timepiece

The dial of the luxury timepiece features Brazil’s signature yellow and green shades as well as a stylized image of a guitar, with a tourbillon carriage in place of the soundhole.
The instrument even has six strings, as thin as human hair, http://www.chinwatch.co fastened in place by hand. With a power reserve of 192 hours, the watch also has a hand-wound 30-second chronometer.The titanium case of this luxury timepiece complements the bezel and indices in 18-carat rose gold. Behind the guitar, one reads “Ordem e Progresso,” Brazil’s national motto.

French luxury brand Hermès designed the strap for the “Samba Madeira,” in alligator leather accented by an adjustable folding clasp with a titanium finish.

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Titoni Seascoper Dive Watch

Titoni is a Swiss watch brand I don't normally see featured outside of Switzerland. At least not here in the US that often. http://www.chinwatch.co They are among the many more affordable brands that have actual histories but have decided not to ascend the steep luxury ladder into the serious lifestyle arena that defines many of the Swiss brands that we cover.
For 2014, Titoni releases a relatively attractive new dive watch based on some historic models from the 1970s. The collection is the Titoni Seascoper ref. 83985, and it includes a range of models with various dials and either a red or blue bezel.

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Autodromo Stradale Line Debuts As The Brand’s New Flagship Watch

With their latest line of watches, called the Autodromo Stradale, http://www.chinwatch.co they continue this tradition by lifting some key aesthetic elements of dashboard instruments from Italian sports cars of the late 1950s and incorporating them in the design of the Autodromo Stradale.
Blending automotive and watch design is not a new thing by any stretch of the imagination, and while we have seen a large number of high-end as well as more affordably priced brands have a go at it, few could pull it off in a memorable way.

The primary reason why it is difficult to get this dashboard-inspired watch design just right is to be found in the fundamentally different purposes of these two seemingly similar items.

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MCT Sequential One Watch

A new luxury brand on the block is Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps (MCT). http://www.kaufeluxusuhren.com Luxury brands seem to be popping with regularity these days, so it's important to notice the unique elements of each.

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The hours are displayed digitally on these aperture windows, while minutes are displayed in a retrograde fashion on a disc that shifts to feature one of the hour displays.

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Marvin M109 Watch Offers Handsome

The company shares the story of many current watch companies: it started a long time ago (1850). Died, then came back via a name purchase. This was about a year ago, and the company was wise enough to have a wide enough range of prices to make them accessible.http://www.chinwatch.co That is OK though, as clever conglomeration is always appreciated. I'd gladly wear this watch often. The case is polished  with nice screws in the dial corners and gently faceted hands. The case has alternative polish and satin finishing.
Inside is an automatic Sellita SW200 movement which is basically an ETA 2824 (exact copy). The movement in oriented in such a manner than the escapement wheel is visible through an open window on the face. This popular trend has always been nice to look at. Think of it as a poor man's tourbillon window.

The M109 has a 41mm x 41mm case that comes in both PVD treated rose gold plated steel and polished steel, with calf leather straps or matching metal bracelets that are designed nicely. It has a sapphire crystal as well.

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Certina DS 1 Chrono Automatique Watch

That isn't to say the watch is without beautiful good looks, but it is more handsome than flashy. You'll notice that Certina chose to include two different types of pushers for the chronograph. http://www.chinwatch.co The start and stop pusher being a bit larger and easier to use. The presence of three distinct pushers/crown on the side of the case is a nice design feature.
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The 316L grade steel case is 43mm wide, which is the perfect size for today's tastes. The case polish varies between high gloss and satin, which add visual depth and interest to face and bracelet. Also note the exhibition caseback window.

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Suunto Triathalon Collection t6c Red Arrow & t3c Black Arrow Watches

Suunto doesn't make just "watches," but rather "wrist-top computers." This new line of watches has been designed in partnership with the International Triathlon Union (ITU). That means the watches have been designed for some serious and specific training use. The traditional training watch was light weight, http://www.chinwatch.co had some timing functions, and that is it. Later models enjoyed such functions like heart rate monitors, and other cool functions.

In addition to all this available data, the t6c Red Arrow takes all this information together and has some clever software that not only logs and plots it for you, but helps to calculate calories burned, Excess Post-exercise Oxygen Consumption (EPOC), and Training Benefit (which is a measurement of the aerobic benefit of a training session, on a one-to-five scale). Little else out there does this, and only just a few more of you are familiar with these scales to keep tabs on.

In addition to the t6c Red Arrow, the t3c Black Arrow will be released soon. The new t3C is to be a bit less expensive and doesn't have quite as many functions. It still has all the basics and can be connected with the heart rate monitor, which is one of the most important parts of the training optimization equation.

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Bovet Saguaro Sportster Meteorite Watches

This is one of those watches that I have been seeing in magazine advertisements for a while, slowly determining whether it was just a fascinating design that would get old, or a really lasting good design.http://www.chinwatch.co  I've decided that that the Bovet Sportster is an awesome watch that fits perfectly into the definition of what a luxury sports watch should be.

It uses a clever bull-head style 46mm wide case, with a top lug structure that wraps nicely around the crown, but if moved allows for easy operation of the screw down crown. The case and pushers are made of 18k red gold, which is interesting in the black version of the case, which is PVD covered gold giving it the black color.

Inside the watch is an automatic Bovet movement. Functions are a standard tri-compax chronograph with a big-date. Bovet makes use of its signature serpentine seconds counter hand for the chronograph.

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Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic

This is by no means the only time that Hamilton has "re-released" The Khaki watch, but I particularly like this iteration and how much Hamilton has been able to hold back from doing something screwy as they often tend to do with watches. http://www.kaufeluxusuhren.com Once in a while however they come out with something nice like this that doesn't have functions that no one uses or style that no one other than Hamilton designers seem to understand.
One of the major characteristics about the dial is the ability to read standard and military (24 hour time). If you know whether it is AM or PM, you can easily understand what 1800 hours means with this watch.

The traditional looking hands are lume covered and the right size (yay!) - while the dials function as well as the original models did. While Hamilton is an American company gone Swiss, at least the available textured leather straps on these 2009 models are made in the USA, the rest is not.

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Mido Multifort Gents & Chrono Valjoux Watches

The watches are 44mm wide in steel cases and 11-14mm thick (depending on the version). The crystal is sapphire and there is a mineral crystal as the caseback exhibition window. http://www.chinwatch.co The case is 100 meters water resistant, and you can get the watch on a leather strap with deployment or a metal bracelet.

Style for the watches is interesting in my opinion. I see three major types of themes that come together. The dial reminds me of a classic dive watch, while there are distinct classic sporty elements as well as a formal qualities to the design. For me it was my favorite new Mido watch for 2009, by far.

The dial and hands are applied with SuperLumiNova lume as well as a a nice level of decoration. You might recognize the Cotes de Geneve decoration as the type you'd find on watch movements.

Mido has taken the attractive vertical patterning and cleverly applied it to the face of the watch. The dials come silvered, black, or in anthracite (dark gray). In my opinion both the Multifort Gent and Chrono Valjoux are attractive and desirable timepieces. The best part is that they are well priced.

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Hublot Watches Is Growing Up

Jean-Claude Biver speaks like a proud father discussing his baby Hublot. He remarks on how the brand has acquired more space, and is only getting more in the future. Biver isn't on everyone's "I love this guy" list, http://www.chinwatch.co but he is a really good  watch company head, and he gets how to run a European luxury watch company. If LVMH is smart, they just leave him to do what he wants to do.

In the video Biver gives us a few hints about the future of Hublot. Namely "manufacture." We know that Hublot is gonna get its own movements to go inside of its watches already with price points as though they already do have their own movements.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Palmero Open Watch

I fell in love with this watch the second I put it on my wrist. Images formed in my head of how I could dash out with it undetected by Jaeger-LeCoultre's watchful eyes. It takes a really nice watch to conjure up images of grand larceny in your head. I let them keep the timepiece, but thoughts of it stayed in my mind. I really need to own one of these someday. Before you is the Palmero Open version of the Reverso Squadra watch. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Palmero Open Replica Watch There are other versions of the piece of course that aren't limited editions like this (gold is limited to 500 pieces, while the steel is not limited). Unlike some of the dual faced versions of the watches (where you flip around the face to display another face on the rear), this version style gives you a view of the movement through a sapphire caseback window.

There are enough differences between the Palmero Open (Palmero) to treat this as a different watch as opposed to just rebranded Reverso Squadra for some sporting event. What is the Palmero Open even? Tennis or golf something? I don't quite care, but the Palmero name sounds catchy. Oh wait, I just checked. Get this, the Palmero Open is some Argentinian Polo match - imagine that. Makes sense with a polo themed watch right? The case is a great size. The standard Reverso (even the larger version) is too small for me. The Squadra is still rectangular, but the dial is much more square. Size is 34.9mm wide by 50mm tall. Nice for this style of watch. You can see how good it looks on the wrist. The top and bottom of the case have angled in lugs for a clean look. The black parts of the case are coated with vulcanized rubber and there is exposed metal with horizontal line texturing on the top and bottom of the case as well as metal around the dial. I love the angular chronograph pusher and crown that go with the look. As I mentioned before, the watch comes in 18 pink gold as well as in steel. The gold version is limited to 500 pieces.

Jaeger's application of the rubber is really nicely done (and sporty!) It further protects the case a bit and has a soft feel to it.  I put an image of the standard  Reverso Squadra watch for you to compare the look. All the angularity of the look is carried over the case with the chronograph subdial and layout of the Arabic numeral hour markers. More horizontal line texturing in the middle of the dial work in tune with the top and bottom of the case front. The hands are probably what you would call baton hands, and look perfect with the look. All the dial really needs for super sportiness is luminant, which this style lacks, but makes up for in sexy looks.

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Inside the watch is Jaeger-LeCoultre in-house made Caliber 754 automatic movement. It has the time, big date (at 12 o'clock), second  timezone in GMT format (lower subdial) and a 12 hour chronograph. There are no seconds for the time. It further has a 65 hours of power reserve. You can see the movement when you "reseve" the case. Yea, it is still called "Reverso" for a reason. You never see images of how the case looks when it is opened or flipped around. So I made sure to take images of that for you. Bascially you just pull up on one side of the case, it snaps our being secured by two spring loaded ball bearings, then slide it over and turn it around and lock it back in. Pretty elegant and simple system. The case housing has some nice perlage polish on it (that looks so good in gold). Through the caseback sapphire window you can check out the movement. It has got some really nice decoration and finish. It reminds of me IWC, but then again IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre are sort of sister brands (both under Richemont), so that makes sense. They will get upset with me however if I don't mention that they are totally separate companies that do their "own thing."

Strap on the watch is a fabric style with a nice lining that matches the sport them of the timepiece. I like it better than the rubber of the standard Reverso Squadra. The Reverso Squadra Palmero is a real kick-ass timepiece with a solid movement, great looks, and a heritage that will keep people who know about watches envious. Top choice is in gold as it looks great with the black, but both are pieces worth lusting over and saving up for. Price is $10,950 in steel and $21,550 in rose gold.

Louis Chevrolet Driver 1911 Watch

This is one strange watch, and an ambitious feat. http://www.chinwatch.co It obviously is reminiscent of the other motoring styles watches that a leaning face that makes it easier to read why your hands are on a steering wheel.
The most distinguishing part of the design is the exposed engine pistons that move like a real engine's would. In a V8 layout of course. I will have to wait until 2011 to see how this actually works.

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Formex A780 Watches

The chronograph pushers (on that version) are meant to look like brake pedals - and the look is pulled off rather well. The final versions of the watches might look a bit different. For instance, the screws around the case on the PVD black cases might not be in black, but in polished steel. http:/http://www.chinwatch.co Attached to the cases will be port-holed leather straps with contrast stitching, and possibly available rubber straps.
Even with all that is going on with the case, it is still only about 13mm thick, and again, 45mm wide. In steel, it comes in PVD and polished steel. The hippest among us will go for the yellow and black dialed version. Hands remain visible and white. There are also a few other tones that play with black and silver tone with a red trim. The grated dial look interesting and industrial.

The chronograph version might end up being the best seller. It has a Swiss ETA 215.211 quartz chronograph movement. I hear there may be another version of the A780 on the way with a Ronda quartz alarm movement that also has a big date. With its cool round-square case and 3D dial.

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Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Watch

In platinum, the watch case and dial of this Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes (yes, spelled like that) watch feel as though they were milled from a solid piece of the precious metal.There is so much platinum in this watch - it boggles the mind. Actually, the the dial, markers, and hands are in gold - but they are toned to look like platinum.

In that video you can see exactly how this movement operates. The tourbillon is oriented at an incline, and moves around its axis once each 24 seconds. http://www.kaufeluxusuhren.com/ For that reason there is a subsidiary 60 seconds dial that is placed right next to it.

There is actually gold in the movement as well, and on various other parts of the watch (such as for the chatons, some bridges, Greubel Forsey logo, etc... If you look carefully, you'll also notice titanium parts of the movement as well. The movement has 72 hours of power reserve, and in addition to the time and tourbillon, has a power reserve indicator on the dial. Realize that the movement is all hand decorated and finished.

In addition to the sapphire crystal on the dial and caseback, there is a curved crystal on the side of the case with a nice view into the happenings of the tourbillon. Everything about the watch aside from looking at it head on involves the movement and its beauty.

Tag Heuer Monaco Watch

A few months ago began an interesting project with the Parsons New School For Design (worked with the New York City campus). http://www.chinwatch.coThe project was called "The Art of Watchmaking." Silly, because the idea was to design watches, not really make movements. Anyhow. The plan was to have design students re-imagine the iconic Tag heuer Monaco.
Student groups were to compete against one another, with each group's result being a few designs. Tag Heuer would reserve the right to actually produce the watches. Produce them if they liked the watches of course. The pictured three watches were the winning models.

Probably not in my opinion. While interesting, I think there is an important lesson to be learned here. Among those lessons is that these student seem to not really have a grasp of good watch design - and why would they? They never learned. Forget the fact that aside from the case, these timepieces don't really have any manner of Tag Heuer design DNA.

The watch dials that the students created are interesting, but don't really do it for me. They really seem a lot more like design concept than something a watch maker would be serious about. The black sliding shield over the top watch makes no sense to me. Looks like when closed it just offers a view of one of the subdials. From a design perspective that might be cool - but it offers nothing of practical interest.

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Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra Thin Watch

Piaget new little flagship watch isn't so little, but it is skinny. This is the thinnest automatic tourbillon watch on the planet - and it really is nice to look at. Comes complete with a front mounted solid gold automatic micro-rotor, and rear-mounted power reserve indicator. http://www.chinwatch.co Sure you can even tell the time as well - but that isn't as easy as seeing the other stuff. Really a gorgeous watch and certainly tasteful enough for most any person to appreciate.
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MB&F HM4 Piece Unique

Just as they did in 2009, MB&F will participate in the 2011 Only Watch charity auction to be held in Monaco this September. http://www.chinwatch.co The event is an auction for unique watches only, with proceedings going to help fund research for a particularly nasty type of disease that affects children. Instead of just changing a color or small style element, MB&F prefers to donate a true piece of art.

For the 2009 Only Watch event MB&F worked with artist Sage Vaughn on a piece unique based on the HM2. This latter piece focused on the crippling nature of the disease and was a beautiful, but dark piece that had barbed wire entangling the movement. For 2011 Max Busser of MB&F wanted a more uplifting message. As the type of muscular dystrophy the charity seeks to combat is incurable, the idea is that the children can only escape in their dreams. Thus, the 2011 MB&F piece Only Watch is a celebration of what boy's dream about. For Max Busser it was frequently flying - and perhaps it was for you as well.

MB&F worked with well-known Chinese artist Huang Hankang on the piece and based it on the HM4 Thunderbolt watch. He discovered Huang Hankang via a painting of his depicting a Panda flying a rocket ship. He contact Mr. Hankang who then came up with the idea of a Panda literally riding the HM4 (that is already meant to look like a flying machine). The Panda represents youth and things we like as children. The little guy is holding reins and literally riding the HM4 like it was a dragon (or a rocket powered ship).

Of course for me, the immediate image is that of the podracers in Star Wars Episode One. The two "pods" that make up much HM4 look like podracer engines, and the reins are similar to those from the scene in the movie. So allow me to nickname this watch the "Panda Bear Rider." The Panda and concept was designed by the artist, and a jeweler in Switzerland crafted the bear and reins out of solid 18k white gold. According to MB&F it took many hours just to hand engrave the Panda and accompanying parts.

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In addition to the figurine, the HM4 watch itself needed to be modified. This is not only for the inclusion of the figurine, but because it is also detachable. Wearing it with the panda bear rider can make the HM4 much more delicate . So you can slide off the panda and reins. This required modifying a few parts on this particular one-of-a-kind creation. Another unique element is the addition of artist Huang Hankang's signature in Chinese placed on one of the bottom mounted sapphire crystals.

Tag Heuer Link Watch

Among Tag Heuer's mainstay watch collections is the Link. I believe it was originally introduced in the late 1980s, http://www.chinwatch.co and has been a major part of the brand's image since then.

Going first to the bracelet, Tag Heuer streamlined the iconic look a lot. Making the links a bit more flush and less rounded. The distance between the parts is much less. I recall with previous bracelet, sizing it was a pain. I did manage to size it myself, but it was a very involved process.

As the core case and bracelet of the watch are softer looking and brushed, Tag Heuer wanted to create a contrast when it came to the dial and bezel. Here you see much of the design of the new Link. For now, gone is the rotating bezel replaced with a fixed polished bezel that hints to the piece's dressy soul.

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Swatch Jeremy Scott Melted Minutes Wrist Watch

Swatch's new resident weirdo designer Jeremy Scott follows up his first collection for the watch brand with another less than a year later. http://www.chinwatch.co I first discussed the Jeremy Scott collection of watches for Swatch here - focusing on the Lighting Flash Watch that I thought was pretty cool. There are five new ones now, arguably more strange than the first collection.

Probably the most interesting piece is not a wrist watch at all but the Swatch Jeremy Scott Hypnotic Heart pocket watch. This is not only an extremely rare Swatch pocket watch but also a more cohesive design that arguably has a more mainstream appeal. Swatch is pretty hush on technical specs as these are being touted for the fashion market, so I don't know what movement is powering this uber pocket watch.

As you can see from the image of Scott wearing the pocket watch around his neck like an alternative universe Flava Flav (who is also arguably from an alternative universe) the piece is rather large.

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Fine Time With Seiko Watches In Arizona

A potentially unlikely spot for die-hard high-end Seiko fans is a unique shop located off the main drag in Scottsdale (area of Phoenix) Arizona. http://www.kaufeluxusuhren.com/ Arizona Fine Time is the watch selling arm of Cigar King, the very well-known mostly online cigar retailer.

Cigar King owner Mitchel Hirsh reportedly started selling watches several years ago due to his own passion for collecting timepieces. This was to be a supplement to his already thriving cigar business. Though business has gotten good enough that plans for a dedicated watch store are in the works. Hirsh does not employ commission-based sales guys pressured to push timepieces. Instead, the store has some highly dedicated watch lovers who are more in charge of the watch sales department and work with customers to educate them on the timepieces they carry. The difference between consumer education and pushing a sale is very real.

The customers saw what they like and simply asked for what they wanted. This comfortable store environment that feels more like a club-house lends itself well to a low-pressure sales environment where customers feel it is appropriate to be casual and themselves.

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Seiko Power Design Chronograph SBPP003/SBPP001 Watch

One of my favorite Power Design Project watch models from the last few years that was actually produced is this Ref. SBPP003 (white dial) or SBP001 (black dial). It looks like a combo between a sport Seiko, http://www.chinwatch.co Tag Heuer Carrera, and an Omega Speedmaster. It is quite thin at about 10mm thick, and 40mm wide (in steel).
The dial comes in black or white - each matched to a black bezel. The piece is handsome and easy to like. Nothing wild here, save for a nicely polished design with both modern and vintage looking accents. I really do like the bracelet. Seiko is known to have the competence to make fantastic bracelets for relatively low priced watches.

Inside the SBPP001/3 watch is a Seiko 7T62 quartz movement. Basic, but highly effective and used in a healthy number of watches. The movement has the time, date, 60 minute chronograph, and an alarm. The lower subsidiary seconds dial is where you set the alarm. Though it is all includes in a nicely organized fashion. The hands and applied hour markers have lume. Little touches like the polished rings around the subdials help this watch be a winner.

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Ermenegildo Zegna High Performance Watches

Fashion brand Ermenegildo Zegna recently debuted two watches in a new collection produced in collaboration with the Sowind Group.Based on the label’s “High Performance” collection of clothing, these new sport watches are fashionably (and practically satisfying). But are they worth your money compared to the alternatives?

Zegna has now moved from an extremely niche collection of high-end, gold-cased dress watches to those competing with the larger world of sport watches. http://www.chinwatch.co Two watches will be available at debut, the High Performance Sea Diver and High Performance Chronograph.
While I know that “High Performance” is the name of a clothing collection for active urban office goers, it is an almost insultingly bland term. I would venture to say that it is even worse than the label “professional” on a watch dial. High Performance is merely an adjective. Consumers should demand to know why they are high performance rather than merely know that the brand would like for you to think they are.

Bot of the watches by the way are 42mm wide - which is a rather mainstream case size. Let’s discuss the High Performance Sea Diver first. It is a nice looking dive piece with a name so pulled from the soup of dive watch labels it is almost comical.

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Omega Sedna Gold And Sochi Games Limited Edition Watches

The Constellation Sedna is 38 mm wide and its unique alloy case houses an Omega in-house co-axial 8501 automatic chronometer movement. http://www.chinwatch.co The movement, along with its Si14 silicon balance spring, can be viewed via a sapphire display case back. The name Sedna comes from a trans-neptunian object which astronomers have described as the reddest object in our solar system and seems a fitting name for a model within the Constellation range.
Did you know that the 2014 Olympics are going to be held in Sochi, Russia? I sure didn't. Luckily Omega is producing a pair of limited edition watches for the upcoming winter games. The Sochi games will the 26th time that Omega has been the official timekeeper for the Olympic Games and to commemorate the 2014 Games, Omega will produce two limited edition Seamaster Planet Ocean models.

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Official Game Of Thrones ‘The Night’s Watch,’ Wrist Watch

The pre-mechanical fantasy medieval world now brought to life in the popular cable television show, now has a timepiece all its own. Just don't expect to see the piece on the wrist of Jon Snow or other members of the celibate order of honorable men and prisoners who man "the wall."

As an eager "watch spotter" when it comes to timepieces worn by characters in television shows that I like, http://www.chinwatch.co I was resolved to the fact that there would be no timepiece identification opportunities in The Game of Thrones. Series author George R. R. Martin is probably more of a suspenders aficionado, but I bet he would like this. Actually, the author does wear a watch, but he wears it face side down under his wrist - so I can't tell what it is.

Red is used for the hour markers and hands as is the case with the standard Marine Diver Black Sea. Though for those who "take the black," it might have been good to make the hands and hour markers accented in gray to create a better "all-black" phantom watch look to match the theme. Ulysse Nardin has a watch like this called the Marine Diver Black Ocean (as opposed to "Sea"). The names do get confusing for sure.

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Patek Philippe Titanium 5004T Watch

The 5004T is a relatively small watch for men at 36.7mm wide. In my opinion Patek Philippe's follow-up model to the 5004 was the 5204 from 2012 (that I wrote about here). The 5204 contained the same mixtures of split second chronograph and perpetual calendar complications, and arrived in a 40mm wide 18k white gold case with beautiful oxidized black hands and hour numerals. http://www.chinwatch.co It arrived just a year or so after Patek Philippe discontinued the 5004 family that was produced for many years.
This piece unique model of the 5004 for Only Watch 2013 has some interesting features that you aren't likely to see on many higher-production Patek watches. One thing I really like is the dial. Produced from a solid piece of gold and hand-machine engraved, the dial has a fantastic textured checker board motif in black that mixes nicely with the applied 18k white gold Arabic numeral hour markers.

There is also the matter of the strap, which is going to be controversial, but fits the special "one-of-a-kind" nature of this watch. Calf leather with a weaved carbon fiber pattern top matched with red contrast stitching, it looks a lot like something you'd find on a much less expensive watch. That isn't to say that Patek hasn't chosen the best quality strap of this style, but it is something that has been rendered in inexpensive ways too often. Patek wants you to feel as though this is a sports watch, especially with that red seconds hand. In all, the color and textures are quite uncharacteristically Patek Philippe, which is probably the idea behind offering it for the upcoming charity auction.

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Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk Watches

The sister collection of Sea Hawk dive watches that debuted at the same time were on rubber straps. While decent looking, http://www.chinwatch.co I personally always felt that this was a watch collection in need of a bracelet to really complete the theme - especially the Chrono Hawk. That time has finally come.
or early 2014, Girard-Perregaux finally debuts the Chrono Hawk in steel on a bracelet. The design strongly hearkens back to the Laureato collection of watches from Girard-Perregaux that helped inspired the Chrono and Sea Hawk timepieces. Though, these modern watches are much larger at 44mm wide with wide lugs. The Chrono Hawk, with its long lugs always "wore large" and Girard-Perregaux promised an upgrade to the strap to allow it to wrap around one's wrist more comfortably. It is entirely possible that this issue has been addressed in the bracelet here assuming there is enough movement in the first link connected to the lugs.

Right now Girard-Perregaux seems to only offer its new steel bracelet on the Chrono Hawk models. It is possible (likely) that it will also be available on the Sea Hawk models but that does not appear to have been confirmed yet. As of today, the Chrono Hawek ref. GP3300-0074 with a blue metallic dial and the ref.

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Corum Chronograph Tourbillon 47 Seafender

My favorite family of watches in the current collection of Corum products is the Admirals' Cup. Based on a now defunct boat race, the original Admiral's Cup watch began in the 1980s and was the original yachting watch to wear on or off deck with your boating shoes and skipper cap. What has marked the Admiral's Cup collection for so long is the 12-sided case and the use of colorful boat pennant flags on the hour markers. The latter has been mostly depreciated as the colors no longer exist on most new Admiral's Cup watches. Many new Admiral's Cup watches are still rather cool. However, with watches like the Chronograph Tourbillon 47 Seafender (that in its own way is interesting) I feel like the original theme and personality of the Admiral's Cup collection has officially been thrown overboard.


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On paper, the Corum Admiral's Cup Chronograph Tourbillon 47 Seafender sounds like a worthy idea. It has a bunch of interesting features and slick materials such that the sum of its parts could actually be highly provocative. Rather, we have a watch built like a Cadillac that mated with an Abrams tanks. These worlds of aggressive luxury boating and high-end complications just don't meld together properly in my eyes.

Rather than mate a tourbillon with a GMT complication, this Seafender marries a tourbillon and a chronograph - again with a dial for the date. Powering the watch is the caliber CO 398 automatic that is pretty nice. if you recall what I said about the first Corum Seafender watch it was that the movement view looked better than the dial. The caliber CO 398 is rare, being an automatic for a tourbillon, and on top of that, it's a tourbillon that operates at 4 Hz. The 60 minute chronograph is column-wheel based, and the dial features a nice window for the tourbillon (with a Corum key logo on it). This dial is much more composed than the Seafender GMT, but that version with the small round-cut diamonds actually in the sub dials just doesn't do it for me.

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The Chronograph Tourbillon 47 Seafender is an Admiral's Cup in case alone. Nothing about the movement or presentation particularly feels like a logical extension of the Admiral's Cup DNA. Something like this would make much more sense being in a Romulus collection. It doesn't seem fair that the relative popularity of the Admiral's Cup line has made it the breeding ground for almost every new concept Corum wants to release. If they want to examine their own past, Corum will find that they are a brand of excellent design creativity and aesthetic ingenuity. I truly want them to return the Admiral's Cup to a place of some actual marine or yachting distinction and create new visual references for pieces it wants to include a tourbillon chronograph into.