Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Panerai PAM305 Luminor Submersible 1950 Dive Watch

Panerai PAM305 watch on eBay

Like many Replica Panerai diving watches, the PAM305 is made of titanium, and is a lofty 47mm wide. I like the clean look of the design and the dial. The rotating diver's bezel has been seen before on other submersible models. The same complaint exists here, which is the lack of minute marks after 15 minutes. Despite this functional issue, the bezel looks nice.

For me, the face of the watch is adequately styled to be a diving watch and a Panerai, though many Panerai watches faces often look a bare -as though something important was missing. Here it is the minute markers, but adding them would make it less of a Panerai. Look at the "1950" in the name, and you realize this is one of those classic homage watches.

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Sunday, March 15, 2015

De Bethune DBS Digital: A Calendar Watch

De Bethune DBS Digital DEB-001 watch

I finally decided that I wanted to write about a calendar watch for New Year's day, but I didn't know what watch to talk about. Calendar watches come in thousands of forms, and have been around practically since the time clocks have been around. http://www.chinwatch.co/hublot-watches.html There are a few highly complex calendar watches that actually do indicate the year, but none of those suited my tastes at this time. I finally decided on writing about one of the most elegant, "love it or hate it" calendar watches out there made by the boutique watch brand De Bethune. I really like the brand even though they put as much effort as is possible to keep their watches priced well outside the watch, or car buying budgets of the majority of people.

The DBS digital ("digitale" if are speaking luxury pretentious) is an extremely basic looking watch from a functional standpoint, and that is the whole point. You have this amazing looking designer case, high grade materials all decorated, and then this simple digital (mostly) display. The time is shown on the bottom via a jumping hour window, and the minutes are on a revolving disc. There is no seconds hand. Above, you have the calendar portion of the watch. Displayed in a row, a series of concentric discs display the day, date, and month.

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It is just that simple. Five pieces of information displayed in a very basic, but effective fashion. If you turn the watch over, you get a starry display complete with constellations, and De Bethune's iconic rotating orb moon phase indicator. Have no doubt, this is exclusively a luxury watch. The moon phase orb is platinum, and the movement powering this deceptively simple watch is a complex mechanical machine.

Bell & Ross Vintage 126 XL Edicion Limitada Watch

bell-ross-vintage-126-xl-edition-limitada


They got the "limitada" part right, but "edition" in Spanish is "edicion" (which an accent mark over the "c" that I can't seem to figure out how to type). That is ok, because the tenor of this watch is still there. At least it is written correctly on the watch itself. The gold and tobacco tones are just what you need when wearing a fine Swiss watch while smoking a cigar.

Well Bell & Ross Replica Watch thinks that is probably the best activity to combine this watch with. This suggestion is so overt, that they package the Vintage 126 XL in a 30 cigar humidor, complete with a humidifier. I don't think cigars are included, but maybe Bell & Ross will throw a few in if you ask nicely.

The Vintage 126 XL Edicion Limitada is more than just a gold version with special colors. The dial is redone, as well as the hands, with a resulting watch that looks nothing like the relatively flat looking standard Vintage 126 XL of watches. I'd even venture to suggest the hands look a bit like cigars. Probably not a coincidence. Its never a good idea to overtly combine and item with tobacco products (this the omission of any words to that effect in the watch name), but the message is clear. And that is ok, while I don't condone smoking, an occasional cigar is a gentleman's pursuit and should be appreciated on rare occasion. Just don't forget to wear your smoking jacket.

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Friday, March 6, 2015

MCT Frequential One F110 Watch

MCT-Frequential-One-F110-5

For 2015, MCT presents their second major watch collection - the Frequential One, as a new piece next to the existing Sequential One and Sequential Two watch families. The MCT Frequential One F110 also represents a new entry-level price-point for the brand, coming in at about half the price of a Sequential Two S200 timepiece. With a movement that is more traditional than the Sequential series, the Frequential One nevertheless, offers an exciting and highly visual mechanical experience for those looking to wear a luxury watch that is clearly outside of what one might consider ordinary.

When I first started writing about watches back in 2007, it was the high-point of what I'll call the "independent watch renaissance" - a time when luxury consumer enthusiasm and willingness to try new things prompted an unprecedented explosion of investment into small high-end watch brands. That period didn't last very long, however, because when the economy sank, so did consumer spending on new, untested brands. MCT originally began in 2009, but later changed ownership. Later, under new ownership and with stable funding, MCT continued its life by releasing the Sequential One S110 watch. A year later, the MCT Sequential Two S200 watch (hands-on here) was released. For 2015, the Frequential One adds a new element to the promising brand.

I visited MCT's HQ in Geneva earlier in 2015 to get a glimpse of the Frequential One F110 watch and concept. With a price around $100,000 for the Sequential Two watch, MCT wanted a lower-priced model as well as something more "technically accessible" compared to the very complex Sequential movement that uses areas with pivoting prisms to tell the hours and a traditional minute hand. While the remarkable MCT Sequential One (originally developed by watch designer Denis Giguet) still holds a top place in my heart, the Frequential One F110 watch is a welcome addition to the brand.

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The core concept of the Frequential One watch, was to place a balance wheel in the center of the dial with the hands underneath it. In execution, the concept appears simple, but it is an engineering challenge. Thus, you have the regulator system as the primary area of attention of the dial, with the hour and minutes hands underneath it, which stick out to the sides. Under 12 o'clock is a useful power reserve indicator - a feature I welcome on all manually wound movements. Designed by Fabrice Gonet, the Frequential One F110 case and dial evoke a contemporary sense of mechanical complexity which I like, and that most of the traditional brands tend to shy away from, due to their conservatism.